Screened by pine trees and security gates, this 1960s landmark has made a glorious comeback as Four Seasons.
Seaside resorts within easy reach of the Acropolis and the Aegean islands, the Athens Riviera was conjured up in the late 1960s when the Astir Palace opened. The Modernist hotel was an instant hit with celebrities, sheikhs, and shipping magnates.
The resort is enormous, occupying 74 acres of Vouliagmeni’s seaside peninsula, making it feel especially secluded from the surrounding Riviera. Spread between three areas on the peninsula — two multistory ocean-facing buildings, Nafsika and Arion, as well as a cove of beachside bungalows — Four Seasons Astir Palace is home to 303 accommodations total.
Waterfront Taverna 37 mimics the easy-going atmosphere of a Greek taverna, with trays of mezze brought to the table. Waitresses in gingham outfits dispense burrata and anchovy bruschetta and linguine vongole at Mercato, a trattoria with electric blue banquettes and plenty of pizzazz. Poolside Helios serves pricey steak and ceviche to off-duty big-wigs. Dinner at Pelagos, in the Arion building, is a fine dining experience not to be missed.
The property’s main pool sits below Nafsika, and it’s the stuff of “White Lotus” dreams. Elegant wood chaise lounges and wood-framed cabanas draped in fresh towels surround a main pool dotted with verdant olive trees. Apollo Beach, also below Nafsika, offers direct access to the Aegean Sea, and guests will find both chaise lounges and private cabanas available for reservation. On the far side of the property, below the bungalows and just beyond the outdoor Taverna 37, is the smaller, curved Zolotas Beach.
